Thursday, June 19, 2025

Ramune - A Taste of Japan's Summer

Ramune ラムネ

Chilled ramune on a hot summer day.
Chilled ramune on a hot summer day

Ramune is a refreshing, Japanese, carbonated drink sold in Codd-neck glass bottles. The drink is a popular staple at summer festivals across the country, it can also frequently be found in small shops near tourist destinations. The more obscure that tourist destination is, the more old-fashioned the shop is, the more likely you are to encounter Ramune.

In a country that sees highly-touted new releases of soft drinks every season by the large beverage companies, ramune survives as a sort of niche product, seen by many Japanese in quite nostalgic terms.

Most Japanese seem to have memories of drinking ramune during a summer trip to the countryside - and of breaking the bottle to retrieve the glass ball from the bottleneck to use it as a marble to play with.

Today's parents buy their children ramune to have them experience those same childhood moments, just the way their own parents did. Thus, ramune lives on through the generations - and children like to play with glass balls no matter what the newest electronic toy may be.

Ramune bottles, Japan.
Ramune bottles

Codd-neck Bottles

The word ramune is a Japanese adaptation of the English word lemonade. Ramune is however not just any lemonade. There are plenty of lemonades in Japan sold in cans and plastic bottles – they can however never be a ramune. To qualify as ramune the drink has to come in a Codd-neck bottle.

The Codd-neck bottle was patented in 1872 by British inventor Hiram Codd as an alternative to the use of cork as a bottle cap for carbonated drinks.

In a Codd-neck bottle, a glass ball, usually called a marble, is pressed against a rubber gasket in the narrow bottleneck close to the lid by the power of the carbonate in the liquid, tightly sealing the bottle by using the power mechanics working inside the bottle. You open the bottle by pushing the glass ball out of its position and into a neighboring chamber within the bottle. The tiny tool to do this comes with the bottle, sealed under the plastic wrapper covering the top.

This demands certain techniques that customers quickly learn, though often only after having a part of the drink shoot out in a gush or by the glass ball falling back into place once they raise the bottle to their mouths. That's all part of the fun, part of those precious childhood memories that make ramune a drink handed over from generation to generation.

Hiram Cobb also introduced the idea of bottle recycling. He started a bottle exchange in London where his bottles could be returned to the original manufacturer. Agents collecting the bottles were paid a fee.

What he didn't count on was the popularity of the glass marbles inside the bottles to children, the main customers of the carbonated soft drinks sold in his licensed bottles. They rather smashed the bottles and used the glass marbles for their own purposes. For playing, for trading.

Hand-drawn ramune poster at a store in Chichibu, Saitama.
Hand-drawn ramune poster at a store in Chichibu, Saitama

Banta

Codd-neck bottles became the rage all over the British Empire but it was the Crown Colony of India where a soft drink was invented that was particularly suited to and, in fact, defined by the mechanics of the Codd-neck bottle: Banta.

The lemon or orange-flavored drink soon went from the posh Colonial clubs into the Indian street markets. Codd-neck bottles were produced by the millions in small glass works. Today. Banta is still one of India's most popular soft drinks.

Opened ramune bottle with bottle opener. The pushed-in glassball can be seen in the upper part of the bottle.
Opened ramune bottle with bottle opener. The pushed-in glass ball can be seen in the upper part of the bottle

History of Ramune

British pharmacist Alexander Cameron Sim (1840-1900) may have known about the success of Banta in India. In any case, shortly after his arrival in the newly-opened port town of Kobe, Japan, he devised his own invention, a lemon-based drink in a Codd-neck bottle that soon became known as ramune.

Introduced in 1884 to the foreign settlement, ramune soon became popular with the Japanese population after an article in the Tokyo Mainichi Shimbun praised the drink's preventative properties against cholera.

Cholera, an infectious disease caused by poor-quality drinking water, was a major concern at the time. Ramune, made from clean mountain water was seen as an easy alternative to drinking the questionable water of the wells within the big cities. As it contained no alcohol, it could also be used as a drink for small children.

Ramune Manufacturers

Today, the production of ramune is regulated by the Law Concerning Adjustment of Business Activities of Large Business Operators to Ensure Opportunities for Business Activities of Small and Medium Enterprises (SME Sector Adjustment Law), a law that also regulates the production of tofu and shochu, for example.

Major beverage companies are not allowed to engage in the production of ramune and have to leave the field to a variety of smaller businesses. Hata Kousen, based in Osaka, might be the most well-known of the ramune manufacturers active today.

Ramune comes in a very wide range of flavors though the most common is still the original lemon / lime flavor. Some people like to add a few drops of lemon juice to the drink - taking out some of its sweetness and adding more freshness.

Retrieving the Marble

In the old days, the rubber gasket at the lid was sealed to the glass bottle, necessitating the destruction of the bottle to retrieve the glass ball inside.

Today, that rubber gasket has been replaced by a plastic cap that can be unscrewed from the bottle. This makes it very easy to take the glass ball out. Just make sure to turn the cap to the right, in the opposite direction of common unscrewing. The marble then easily plops out of the bottle.

Codd-neck Bottles Today

While the Codd-neck bottle was a major invention of the late 19th century, in the course of the 20th century it was almost universally replaced by the much more convenient crown cork.

Very few beverages are still offered in Codd-neck bottles today. The two major drinks among them are India's Banta and Japan's ramune - which makes the bottles collectibles among some aficionados of vintage bottle designs.

Six-pack of Hata Ramune.
A six-pack of Hata Ramune

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Wednesday, June 18, 2025

Norwegian Wood by Murakami Haruki

Japan Book Review: Norwegian Wood

Norwegian Wood

by Murakami Haruki

ISBN: 978-0375704024
Vintage, 2000
298 pp; paperback

While Death is an ever-present companion in Murakami's fiction, lurking just out of sight of the mundane world (and often down a well), the dark, impenetrable wood of suicide is peculiar to Norwegian Wood, perhaps his most famous novel. Its date of publication, 1987, puts it inside the speculative economic 'bubble' period in Japan. 1987 seems to have been a particularly angst-filled time for Japanese postmodern writers, for in the same year Banana Yoshimoto published her first novel Kitchen. While this does not deal with suicide, it mirrors Norwegian Wood's focus on the struggles of those whom Death leaves behind in the mundane world, to carry on living as best they can, and to make sense of life and death in any way that works for them.

Norwegian Wood

Tōru Watanabe, the I-narrator of Norwegian Wood, inhabits two time periods in this story - the framing world of the late '80s, in which he is a financially successful, yet emotionally adrift, author, and his earlier, eventful university years. The bulk of the novel takes place in the late 1960s, when, as a young adult, he has been reunited with childhood friend Naoko, the suicide of whose boyfriend in high school has left her mentally unstable. Watanabe finds his feelings for this girl rekindled, but when she leaves Tokyo to enter a sanatorium near Kyoto he finds himself drawn into the world of the offbeat Midori, who is the vital, worldly foil to Naoko's ethereal, tenuous existence. In the unconscious push and pull between these two poles, the immortal lyrics of the Beatles' Norwegian Wood gain their purchase: "I once had a girl, or should I say, she once had me." For Watanabe is in thrall to both females, and in a sense they represent two basic human responses to extremity: the death urge and the sex urge, Thanatos and Eros. The emotionally crippled Naoko cannot internalise sexual experience, while Midori thrives on it, even if most of it takes place in her fevered imaginings.

Indeed, the novel aroused comment in Japan for both its frank treatment of suicide and depiction of youthful sexual fumblings, the latter of which has surely enlightened a whole generation of high-school students in Japan. Some might argue that this novel created the inflexible mould for Murakami's subsequent treatment of female characters: their sexuality is rarely left unexplored in his later works, and an uncharitable critic could argue that much else of them is. (None of his novels, for example, has had a female voice: Sputnik Sweetheart, ostensibly focusing on female protagonist Sumire, still has a male narrator as a framing device.)

Norwegian Wood, as I have already suggested, is different from Murakami's other novels to date, and not only in terms of its subject matter. Unlike his previous, fourth novel Hard-Boiled Wonderland and the End of the World, whose narrative alternates between worlds of fantasy and 'reality', this work purposely does not employ the occult as some balance to the jazz-and-whiskey Tokyo urban jungle that characterises Murakami's take on modern 'internationalised' society. The late-60s setting - a time of soul-searching for Japan's student elite, under the influence of European and American intellectuals - reveals much about Murakami the writer as a young man. He pointedly prefers Fitzgerald and Chandler to Ōe and Mishima, rejecting the aesthetic of his fellow countrymen, and regards personal philosophical enquiry as inherently superior to social revolution, as the latter is, for him, inevitably self-undermining and hypocritical. (The 'other' Murakami, Ryū, explores similar themes in his bitingly funny social critique 69.)

Watanabe may never be able to fathom the depths of Naoko's despair, but he makes a sincere attempt to understand her. In a similar way, perhaps, Murakami never quite explains the enigma of what it means to live in a postmodern, seemingly arbitrary, ideologically vacant society, but in this his fifth novel he refines his still-ongoing examination of the millennial human condition. In this sense, Norwegian Wood is a reasonably significant late-20th-century novel, and in terms of what it reveals about Murakami the writer, an important one for his fans.

Review by Richard Donovan.

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Sunday, June 15, 2025

The Snow Woman and Other Yokai Stories from Japan

Japan Book Review: The Snow Woman and Other Yokai Stories from Japan

The Snow Woman

by Noboru Wada

ISBN: 978-4-8053-1758-7
Tuttle Publishing, 2024
286 pp; paperback

If you are familiar with the words kappa, yamamba, enma and yurei you will likely enjoy Noboru Wada's 2004 The Snow Woman. If not, well, you may enjoy this book anyway, especially if you know just the word yokai. Yokai are Japanese ghosts, goblins or other supernatural beings. They can appear in many forms, including animal-like figures, humanoids or, sometimes, inanimate objects. They can quickly change form and are associated with supernatural phenomena and/or feelings of agitation or trepidation.

This book is a collection of 77 traditional short yokai stories, mostly from the old Japanese province of Shinano, now called Nagano Prefecture. The purpose of most of the stories seem to be to entertain or maybe perplex readers, although some of the stories have clear, moral teachings like Aesop's Fables.

The Snow Woman Book Review.
The Snow Woman and Other Yokai Stories from Japan

Don't worry if your yokai vocabulary is lacking - there is a handy glossary at the beginning of the book explaining 27 yokai-related words. If you still don't understand the concept of Yokai, the closest Western equivalent might be of well-told, scary campfire stories. Bring your own s'mores.

While the vast majority of stories deal with old, traditional yokai at some level, a few of the stories seem completely unrelated. For example, there is a story about World War II beheadings which is more macabre than yokai.

Another story also references World War II. Some stories have interesting names, i.e., "The Smelly Priest and the Yamamba" and "The Man Who Could Drink Two Quarts of Soy Sauce." Upon finishing a few of the stories, some readers may mumble, "What the heck was that all about?"

Most of the stories are one to three pages, and only a few stretch to as long as five pages, so if you aren't enjoying a particular story you needn't worry as it will conclude soon. There are also about 25 full-page illustrations which are entertaining.

The Snow Woman and Other Yokai Stories from Japan.

There is a story that alludes to "ghosts who would stroke people's buttocks," but readers end up having to be satisfied with a story of a ghost who stroked people's faces. Oh, well.

People of all ages can enjoy this book, and no real special knowledge of Japan is needed.

Don't be an onibaba, go out a get a copy of this book.

Review by Marshall Hughes, author of Rural Reflections.

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Thursday, June 12, 2025

Ema Votive Plaques Japan

Ema Japanese Votive Plaques 絵馬

Jake Davies

Ema Votive Plaques Japan.
A variety of differently-shaped ema hanging at a shrine

While visiting Shinto shrines in Japan, and to a lesser extent Buddhist temples, one thing you are likely to see is a rack with numerous small, wooden plaques hanging from it.

These wooden plaques are ema, most commonly translated as "votive plaques" in English. On one side of the wooden board will usually be a picture, and on the other the person writes their prayer or wishes. One writer on Japanese popular religion has coined the phrase "postcards to the gods", to describe ema, and this seems particularly apt.

An ema at Futagoji Temple in Oita with a colourful depiction of the shrine in Autumn.
An ema at Futagoji Temple in Oita with a colorful depiction of the shrine in autumn

Pictures

Most ema will have a picture on one face, often quite colorful. Often this will be a depiction of the deity or deities enshrined in the shrine or temple, or a legend or myth associated with the temple.

Sometimes it can be a specific noteworthy feature of the shrine buildings and grounds, or famous historic figures with a connection to the shrine. Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine near Kyoto sells ema depicting Thomas Edison.

Many shrines are too small to produce their own ema, and so depictions of the treasure ship carrying the Seven Luck Gods are quite common. The most common ema pictures nowadays are the 12 animals associated with the Chinese zodiac and calendar, usually holding prayers and wishes for the coming year. This year 2022 is the Year of the Tiger.

Ema come in many different shapes and can be found at Buddhist temples as well as Shinto shrines.
Ema come in many different shapes and can be found at Buddhist temples as well as Shinto shrines

Shape

While there are no hard and fast rules for the size and shape of ema, there is a common standard that is a 5-sided figure, imagine a rectangle about 16 cm wide with a "roof", though miniature versions can be seen, as well as larger sized.

In fact, many shrines display a giant ema of this shape during the new year with an image of the new year animal. However, a wide range of shapes can actually be found. Pentagons and circles are quite common, and irregular shapes abound: heart-shaped ema are seen at shrines connected to romantic love, ema shaped like cars are used for traffic safety prayers, and human-shaped ema are used for prayers for health, with the affected area of the body marked on the ema by the petitioner.

Historically ema were paintings of horses.
Historically ema were paintings of horses

Prayers

The prayers and wishes that are written upon the ema run across the full range of human desires, though most would fall under the category of "this-worldly" benefits, that is to say, the attraction of good fortune and the protection against misfortune.

Desires for health, wealth, and happiness, in all its varied forms, are written on ema, and the practice extends outside of the bounds of purely religious practice into cultural practice as ema are starting to appear at secular sites in Japan such as supermarkets and department stores, and ema are sometimes collected as souvenirs.

These unusual ema featuring breasts are found at shrines connected to safe birth, etc.
These unusual ema featuring breasts are found at shrines connected to safe birth, etc

Though specific shrines and temples are linked to specific wishes, any shrine or temple will have ema with a wide range of wishes and prayers upon them.

Ema featuring the Chinese zodiac animal for the new year, The boar was the animal of 2019.
Ema featuring the Chinese zodiac animal for the new year, The boar was the animal of 2019

Origin of Ema

The word ema means "horse picture" and refers to paintings of horses that were given to shrines as offerings. The practice grew more popular and other subjects were used in the paintings, with ships being particularly common.

Some of the larger shrines still have an Ema-do, or Ema Hall where such paintings can still be seen, though most smaller shrines have the paintings on display in the worship hall.

In Japan, horses have somewhat of a sacred character historically, as in many other cultures around the world, especially in East Asia. Kifune Shrine just north of Kyoto relates that in the 8th century the Emperor would donate a horse to the shrine, a white horse to pray for rain, and a black horse to pray for the rains to stop.

Heart-shaped ema at a shrine specializing in love matches.
Heart-shaped ema at a shrine specializing in love matches

Statues of horses can be found at many shrines, and a wooden, white horse can often be found in its own small structure. A few shrines still have real horses. Archaeological and textual evidence suggests that in earlier, pre-Buddhist times, horses were actually sacrificed, The horse paintings, and hence the contemporary ema, developed as a much cheaper and accessible way to get the message to the gods.

At Kokawabusuna Shrine in Wakayama, a special area has been set aside to display ema put up by non-Japanese visitors.
At Kokawabusuna Shrine in Wakayama, a special area has been set aside to display ema put up by non-Japanese visitors

Ema shaped like yokai featured in manga on display at a non-religious tourist site in Sakaiminato, Tottori.
Ema shaped like yokai featured in manga on display at a non-religious tourist site in Sakaiminato, Tottori
Paintings given to shrine as offerings are the forerunners of today's ema.
Paintings given to shrines as offerings are the forerunners of today's ema

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Wednesday, June 11, 2025

Onomatope: The Fantastic World of Japanese Symbolic Words

Japan Book Review: Onomatope: The Fantastic World of Japanese Symbolic Words

Onomatope

by Ono Masahiro

ISBN: 978-4-8163-6734-2
Natsumesha Co. Ltd., 2019
208 pp; paperback

Meow….Woof woof….Crash!....Whoosh!
What just happened? Perhaps you imagined a cat and a dog getting in a fight, something falling over and the cat running away.
You concluded this just from reading four onomatope (or more correctly onomatopoeia) words, words that imitate the natural sounds of things. The words sound like what they describe.

Onomatope: The Fantastic World of Japanese Symbolic Words.
Onomatope: The Fantastic World of Japanese Symbolic Words

Those who are already somewhat familiar with the Japanese language might know commonly-used words found in this delightful book, words like perapera (fluent), dokidoki (the heart pounding with excitement) and piipoo piipoo (the sounds of ambulance sirens). All of these are considered onomatope and are found in these pages.

With only a few exceptions, most of the Onomatope are given one page and fit the following format: on the top is the number (of the 201 discussed onomatope), followed by the katakata for the onomatope, followed by the romaji for the onomatope, followed by a cute, near-half-page drawing of the word used in a one-frame cartoon, followed by the kanji definition of the word, followed by that definition in romaji. Then at the bottom are example sentences using the onomatope in Japanese (kanji and kana) and the translation in English.

A greedy reader like me might have liked to have had kana for the kanji in the example sentences, but perhaps that is asking a bit too much.

Contents are divided into 10 categories, i.e., expressions and feelings, body movements, degrees and manners etc. The last chapter is dedicated to sounds, for example sounds that animals make. Did you know that horses say "hihiin" or that elephants say "paoon?" Shaka shaka is the sound that tambourines or maracas make.

To tell the complete, unvarnished truth, some of the words listed don’t really fit the onomatope definition, but readers can work around that. For example, assari is said to be "someone or something being straight forward and plain." Huh?
The book has plenty of spacing and is visually pleasing and, well, "fun."

In case you want to quicky find an onomatope that you previously learned, there is a handy alphabetical index in the back of the book. While not really a text book, this book can certainly be used that way. Its small size (5.8 x 4.1 inches) makes it easy to slide in your pocket and pull out any time.

Review by Marshall Hughes, author of Rural Reflections.

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Friday, May 16, 2025

Japanese Porcelain Arita & Imari Ware

Japanese Porcelain: Arita & Imari Ware 有田焼と伊万里焼

Monument for the historic porcelain trade in Imari Harbor.
Monument for the historic porcelain trade in Imari Harbor

Japanese porcelain was all the rage at the European royal courts in the 1700s as well as among rich traders who could afford to compete with the royals in terms of wealth.

Japanese porcelain, that meant highest-grade white pottery, colorfully underglazed with exotic patterns or equally exotic drawings of Asian landscapes and poetic scenes.

Japan had by then become a closed country, a country of mystery. No European royal could even dream of taking a trip there. Only the Dutch had a small trading post in Nagasaki and it was the Dutch who sold the Japanese porcelain to the European courts.

In fact, the fascination of the European courts with East Asian porcelain dated back much earlier, but in the 1600s, the Manchu started their invasion of Ming Dynasty China, leading to much turmoil and interrupting trade with the famed Chinese pottery.

Looking for an alternative to the treasured Chinese porcelain, the European royals discovered Japanese porcelain. It didn't have the tradition of going back in history a 1000 years or more as the Chinese pieces did but it appeared to come from a culture even more refined.

From the legendary Zipangu, a country about which Marco Polo had written some fabled hearsay.

Portuguese missionaries had their days in Japan in the 1500s but their accounts most likely didn't matter much to the European royals.

Who wants to hear about the struggles of Catholic monks if you can just hold a precious piece of fine porcelain in your hand and dream about its exotic origins?

Arita and Imari

Japanese porcelain was to a large part manufactured in the town of Arita, in today's Saga Prefecture, in north-west Kyushu, just a bit south of Fukuoka.

Arita was an inland town, however, and the ware was shipped through the port of Imari to Nagasaki from where the Dutch conducted their international trade.

Imari ware became the trade name of the porcelain even though most of it was manufactured in Arita.

Bridge at the entrance to Okawachiyama.
Bridge at the entrance to Okawachiyama

Okawachiyama Kilns in Imari

Imari did and still does however also have its own kilns producing high quality porcelain. Those are the kilns in Okawachiyama, a narrow valley close to a rich kaolin depot in the mountains just outside the town of Imari.

Today, the Okawachiyama Kilns are a major tourist attraction. People stroll the narrow lanes between the kilns, porcelain lovers hunt for bargains.

At the local porcelain shops, both decorative pieces and high-grade household wares are sold. On the latter, great discounts can be had if you choose some pieces with minor faults only a porcelain master would spot.

Street in Okawachiyama.
Street in Okawachiyama

If you arrive on an off-season day with not many other visitors around, you may be able to strike up a conversation with some of the porcelain masters, them going with you through their kilns and explaining the traditional production process.

That production process has undergone very little changes since the days of European royalty as major customers.

Porcelain kiln in Okawachiyama.
Porcelain kiln in Okawachiyama

Origins of Arita and Imari Ware

The origins of Arita and Imari wares are debated among historians. There is no doubt that the porcelain making techniques came to the area from the Korean peninsula. But how exactly?

The most commonly told story is that Lord Naoshige Nabeshima (1537-1619), the local ruler of Hizen Province, encompassing what are now Saga and Nagasaki Prefectures, participated in Hideyoshi Toyotomi's Imjin War (1592 - 1598). Hideyoshi had just about unified Japan and wanted now to expand his rule over the Korean peninsula. That attempt failed but Japan gained valuable cultural expertise as a result of that war.

Lord Nabeshima is said to have actively recruited Korean potters during his time in Korea and resettled them in his home domain.

One of them, a certain Yi Sam Pyong, is said to have stumbled over a kaolin deposit near Arita. Pure white kaolin is the base material for porcelain.

Starting in the late 19th century, Yi Sam Pyong became hailed as the legendary father of Japanese porcelain.

More recent research shows that Yi Sam Pyong did exist but most likely wasn't a trained potter and had no influence on the development of Japanese porcelain.

Ceramic tiles depicting historic Okawachiyama.
Ceramic tiles depicting historic Okawachiyama

Another theory has it that small scale local rulers recruited Korean potters well before the Imjin War and that the kaolin deposits were discovered when those rulers prospected for possible gold deposits in their areas.

Be that as it may. What's documented is that Korean potters were in the area prior to the year 1600 and that Lord Nabeshima eventually became their sponsor and protector. That's why the Arita and Imari porcelain is also known as Nabeshima ware.

It took until about the year 1650 for those potters to develop techniques that allowed them to produce high-class translucent white porcelain with underglaze decorations.

Underglaze

Underglaze decoration means that the ink of the drawing or pattern is applied directly to the raw porcelain. After finishing the drawing, the whole piece is covered with transparent ceramic glaze and sent into the kiln for high-temperature firing.

The decoration becomes thus a deeply embedded part of the porcelain. The even application of the ceramic glaze provides a uniform sheen.

Because of the intense heat of the firing, very few colors could be used. Blue was traditionally the most common. Especially in Arita, however, the use of bright red became popular, making for outstandingly colorful pieces.

Arita and Imari Ware Today

In Japan today, the old European classification of all porcelain from the area as Imari ware has long been discarded. Arita ware is labeled as Arita ware and still a highly prized porcelain.

Arita ware tea set.
Arita ware tea set

It's not in the domain of the royals anymore, though. Newly manufactured Arita ware can be found in most Japanese households caring about the quality of their kitchen goods.

That's partly due to the decision of luxury furikake tsukudani rice topping maker Kinshobai to offer some of their product in beautifully styled Arita ware containers.

Kinshobai rice topping in Arita ware bowl.
Kinshobai rice topping in Arita ware bowl

The Imari ware of the Okawachiyama kilns is much rarer to find on the general market. Your best bet would be to include a trip to Okawachiyama on your next trip to Japan - especially if you plan to hunt for a bargain available only locally.

You can also order a variety of Arita and Imari ware kitchen goods for your home from Goods from Japan.

Imari porcelain rice bowls produced at the Okawachiyama kilns.
 Imari porcelain rice bowls produced at the Okawachiyama kilns

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Examples of Arita ware.
Examples of Arita ware

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Tuesday, April 29, 2025

Koinobori & Children's Day Japan

Koinobori & Children's Day 鯉のぼり

Jake Davies

Towards the end of April, large groups of koinobori carp streamers start appearing in readiness for Children's Day on May 5th.
Towards the end of April, large groups of koinobori carp streamers start appearing in readiness for Children's Day on May 5th

May 5th in Japan is Kodomo no Hi, Children's Day when the Japanese celebrate their children, and the most visible sign of the approach of Children's Day is the appearance from mid-April onward of the colorful windsocks known as Carp Streamers or Koinobori.

Suspended across a river is one of the more dramatic locations to see koinobori.
Suspended across a river is one of the more dramatic locations to see koinobori

Children's Day in Japan

Children's Day is the last of four National Holidays that fall at the end of April and early May that collectively are known as Golden Week, and with many companies giving their employees 7 to 10 days off, Golden Week has become the second biggest holiday and vacation time in Japan after the New Year holidays.

Children's Day, the last of the Golden Week National Holiday days was not established until 1948. Prior to that it was known as Tango no sekku, commonly called Boy's Day, and it was in that form that the association with koinobori began.

Colorful koinobori carp streamers celebrate Children's Day.
Colorful koinobori carp streamers celebrate Children's Day

Chinese Influence

Ancient Japan adopted the calendrical and numerological system from China, In this system specific dates were laden with symbolic meaning, and the 5th day of the 5th month was a seasonal court festival, along with the 1st day of the 1st month, Oshogatsu, New Year, 3rd day of the 3rd month, Hina Matsuri, the Doll Festival, 7th day of the 7th month, Tanabata, and the 9th day of the 9th month, Kiku Matsuri.

These festivals originated in rites of protection against evil, and among the common people these days took on their own meanings, with notably Hina Matsuri being celebrated as Girl's Day, and Tango no sekku as Boy's Day, and it was in this form that May 5th became associated with koinobori.

On May 5th families would celebrate their male children, putting up displays of Kintaro dolls, based on a legendary Heian Period samurai, Sakata no Kintoki, as well as Kabuto, samurai helmets and sometimes whole miniature suits of samurai armor. In the Edo Period banners bearing the image of carp were added to the displays.

Japanese koi kept in the canals of Tsuwano Castle town where they were used for an emergency food source.
Japanese koi kept in the canals of Tsuwano Castle town where they were used as an emergency food source

Carp

The carp is native to the waterways of Japan and was a prized source of food. In the former castle town of Tsuwano in Shimane, the drainage canals of the town were stocked with carp for use as an emergency food in case of siege, and today visitors can still see them.

Most people however, will think of the ornamental,  multi-colored, koi that are a relatively recent development but which are now a common feature not just of traditional Japanese gardens but garden ponds throughout the world.

Symbolism

In Japan the koi has come to represent strength, courage, endurance, perseverance, and health, and these attributes gave been derived from a well known, ancient Chinese tale of a golden carp that swam upstream of the Yellow River, eventually swimming up a waterfall and being reincarnated as a dragon.

The qualities attributed to the koi were those most valued by the samurai and wished for for their sons.

One theory how the koi became associated with Boy's Day was that when the Shogun had a son, the news was announced by raising carp flags.

Koinobori flying at a mountain park.
Koinobori flying at a mountain park

Displaying koinobori

The traditional way of displaying the koinobori was at the top of a tall bamboo pole. At the top would be the largest, black-coloured koinobori representing the father of the family fukinagashi (吹き流し).

Followed by a red koinobori for the eldest son of the family, followed by decreasingly sized ones in blue, green, purple, and orange, for any younger sons.

When Boy's Day switched to Children's Day the symbolism changed somewhat with the second, red, Koinobori coming to represent the mother, and often pink being used instead of red.

The other colors came to represent both sons and daughters. In fact, more and more these traditional meanings have been discarded and some families simply fly koi representing just the children of the family who are still at home.

The traditional method of displaying koinobori, now found mostly only in the countryside, is atop a tall bamboo pole.
The traditional method of displaying koinobori, now found mostly only in the countryside, is atop a tall bamboo pole

Nowadays the most common way to see koinobori is not in the single displays put up by families, but in large public and civic situations.

A very popular site is strung across a river, where when the wind blows it most looks like carp swimming against the current. Other popular spots include parks, strung between buildings, and increasingly at shopping malls and retail parks.

Dozens of large koinobori across the Gonokawa River in Shimane.
Dozens of large koinobori across the Gonokawa River in Shimane

Purchase a Range of Koinobori from Japan

Purchase a selection of koinobori carp streamers from GoodsFromJapan

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Friday, April 04, 2025

Iconic Japanese Chocolates

Japanese Chocolates 日本のチョコレート

Japanese chocolates.
Japanese chocolates

Today, Japan is a major producer of chocolate, the varieties on offer are endless and deeply ingrained in popular culture.

On Valentine's Day, girls traditionally present chocolates to their favored boy, on White Day (March 14th) boys reciprocate with their own chocolate gifts to the respective girl.

There are chocolates that students present to each other before exams, often inscribed with personal well-wishing messages. Manufacturers adapted quickly to that custom and leave blank spaces on the packages for exactly that purpose.

Add to that an abundance of imported chocolates, mainly Belgian and Swiss, and Japan becomes a chocolate wonderland.

Foreign visitors took notice. Soon, some of the most original Japanese chocolates became favorites in the West as well. Hard to find favorites, that is. Typically, those craving the treats need to rely on friends visiting Japan to buy them a few packages, carrying them back home in their suitcases.

Before going into the specifics on the most iconic Japanese chocolates, both in Japan and oversees, let's have a brief look at the history of Japanese chocolate.

Taichiro Morinaga

Taichiro Morinaga (1865-1937) is widely credited as the pioneering entrepreneur popularizing chocolate in Japan.

Morinaga, a native of what is now Saga Prefecture in Kyushu, moved to Yokohama in his youth and tried his hands at various businesses. They all failed and with no prospects left, Morinaga moved to San Francisco at age 23, opening a hardware store in the city. At that time, Morinaga discovered American milk candy and he fell in love with the sweet immediately. Not being able to obtain a real apprenticeship at an American candy manufacturing company, Morinaga joined one such company as janitor. Moving slowly into actual candy manufacturing work, Morinaga stayed with the company for 11 years.

By then feeling confident about producing his own candies in Japan, Morinaga moved back and opened his first candy shop in Akasaka, Tokyo in 1899.

The milk candy Morinaga's small enterprise produced became very popular among the families of Western diplomats and expatriates but also caught on with the tastes of local Japanese.

The step up to chocolate production was still risky. At the time in Japan, chocolate had the reputation of being unpleasantly bitter. Something Western sailors would eat to keep up their strength on their long journeys to Yokohama.

To introduce his sweet milk chocolate, Morinaga had to start and operate his own dairy farm as the milk supply in Japan was still insufficient for any larger milk-based industrial production.

In 1918, Morinaga's company was the first to mass-produce sweet milk chocolate in Japan. It immediately became very popular, leading the way to Morinaga & Company becoming one of the largest sweets producers in Japan, branching out into biscuits, jellies, cocoa drinks and many other products.

Visit any Japanese supermarket or convenience store and you will find lots of Morinaga products all over the shelves.

The Morinaga Company laid the groundwork, the products of the company are still reliable essential items.

The job of tuning taste levels a further notch up however was left to Morinaga's immediate competitors. The iconic products discussed below are made by large manufacturers closely following Morinaga's footsteps but getting vastly more innovative in the long run.

Meltykiss on a supermarket shelf.
Meltykiss on a supermarket shelf

Meiji Meltykiss

Chocolate maker Meiji started out in 1916 as Tokyo Confectionary Co., handling imported Western confectionaries and dairy products. Soon, Meiji developed its own dairy and sweets products, introducing Meiji Milk Chocolate in 1926. The chocolate became a huge success with Japanese customers, it is still sold today in every Japanese supermarket in a wrapper almost identical to the original packaging from 1926.

Fast forward to the year 1992. In that year Meiji introduced Meltykiss, "a seasonal chocolate product … to represent the tranquility of winter by creating chocolate as smooth as snow," as the company website states in corporate advertising poetry.

Milk chocolate Meltykiss.
Milk chocolate Meltykiss

Meltykiss is indeed a delicious treat. Originally introduced as soft cubes of milk chocolate, by now versions with dark chocolate, strawberry, matcha and other flavors are also available.

Meltykiss is only available in winter "because the distinct, smooth textures of the chocolate treat only come out when stored at temperatures lower than 23°C." (Quote from the company website again).

Buy a 5-pack set of Meltykiss from GoodsFromJapan

Kinoko no Yama and Takenoko no Sato mix packs on a supermarket shelf.
Kinoko no Yama and Takenoko no Sato mix packs on a supermarket shelf

Meiji Kinoko no Yama & Takenoko no Sato

In 1975, Meiji introduced Kinoko no Yama (Mushroom Mountain) chocolate cookies. As the name promises, those cookies are shaped like small mushrooms. Though the fun-looking packages appear to be aimed at children, those cookies soon became also a favorite among many adults. They go very well will a cup of strong coffee.

In 1979, Meiji followed up with the Takenoko no Sato (Bamboo Sprouts Hometown) chocolate cookies. Those are shaped like bamboo sprouts. More importantly, eggs and almonds were added to the cookie dough. Enhancing the taste on one hand but making them off-limits to people with respective allergies.

Buy an 8-bag Kinoko no Yama and Takenoko no Sato Mix Pack

Pocky Sticks on a shelf.
Pocky Sticks on a shelf

Glico Pocky Sticks

Closely following up on the success of the Morinaga and Meiji confectionary companies, Riichi Ezaki (1882-1980) formed the Ezaki Glico Company in 1922 in Osaka. Confectionaries, dairy products and processed foods have been the focus of the company ever since. Glico is one of the big players in this field in Japan.

Among internation chocolate lovers, however, Glico is most famous for its Pocky Sticks, chocolate-coated biscuit sticks, introduced in 1966.

Glico soon expanded the range of the flavors. Today, Pocky Sticks are available with strawberry chocolate, matcha flavored chocolate, almond chocolate and many other variations.

Variations of Pocky Sticks.
Variations of Pocky Sticks

While the classic chocolate sticks in the red package are always available, the other variations are often sold only seasonally. Winter tends to be the best time to find a large variety of Pocky Sticks on Japanese supermarket shelves.

Buy classic Pocky

KitKat.
Kit Kat

Nestle Kit Kat

Kit Kat was first launched by Roundtree's of York, England as a working man's chocolate wafer in 1935. "Have a break… have a Kit Kat", the famous advertising slogan from 1958, sums up those early days of Kit Kat. Roundtree's introduced Kit Kat to Japan in 1973 as a very British treat.

In 1988, Swiss food conglomerate Nestlé acquired Roundtree's and with it the Japanese Kit Kat franchise.

It took until about the year 2000 but then Nestlé Japan handed Kit Kat development and marketing to a creative Japanese team.

The term 'creative' cannot be overstated here. After some initial trials with different Kit Kat flavors, the team went simply wild.

While new flavors like strawberry and matcha have by now become standards available in every supermarket, the Japanese team went much further.

A great variety of seasonal products were introduced, sometimes lasting only one single season. Famous pastry chefs were hired to work on those flavors, developing Kit Kat wafer bars in a multitude of shapes and tastes only sold in the most high-end shops in the most up-scale neighborhoods. Like, say, Tokyo's Ginza.

In addition, regional Kit Kat flavors are marketed as omiyage gifts. Japanese traveling somewhere like to bring souvenirs, often foods, back to their friends and family.

So, Kit Kat relating to the typical flavors a certain region is associated with are sold in local souvenir shops alongside the actual products from the respective region. Like sweet potato in Okinawa, wasabi in Shizuoka, yama imo (Japanese mountain yam) in Kyushu or salty plum in Yamanashi.

In the process, all connections to the old British image of Kit Kat were expunged. Kit Kat became 100% Japanese despite the Nestlé logo printed on every package.

Extra Rich Dark Green Tea KitKat 10-Pack

Matcha Kit Kat (left) and classic Kit Kat.
Matcha Kit Kat (left) and classic Kit Kat

Buy Iconic Chocolates from Japan

Good luck with your Kit Kat hunting in Japan! The Don Quijote megastore in Shibuya, Tokyo is said to offer the greatest variety on Kit Kat products anywhere in the country… but for the regional flavors you still have to travel to the various regions.

The most common Kit Kat products, as well as various varieties of the other chocolates described above can easily be ordered here at Goods from Japan.

Goods from Japan offers a variety of Japanese foodstuffs and ingredients.

Purchase a range of Japanese food and chocolates from GoodsFromJapan.

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by Johannes Schonherr

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